South Manitou Island Lighthouse | Seeing The Light |
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Historical
Information
The following month, Navy Lieutenant James T Homans was dispatched to the Great Lakes to conduct an inspection of all existing lighthouses, and to select sites for six new stations for which Congress had recently made appropriations, among which was the new light for South Manitou. On his arrival on the island, Homans confirmed the importance of the natural harbor, noting that "I saw within it, during 24 hours of my stay there, a number of vessels, the aggregate of whose tonnage was 2,000 tons. The value of this harbor is the more enhanced, by its being the only one admitting the largest vessels in all weather, in the direct route between the straits of Michilimackinac and Chicago - a distance of 300 miles." After considering a number of sites around the bay, Homans selected a site for the new lighthouse on a knoll at the bay’s southern point. Reporting that "there can be little dispute as to this point being the best for this light-house, it being open to the course of vessels going up or down the lake, and abundant depth of water within a few yards of the point for the largest craft," Homans marked the site with an appropriately marked stake, and departed for Lake Huron.
Island resident William Burton was selected as the station’s first Keeper at the standard annual salary of $350.00. However it appears that Burton took more interest in collecting and selling cordwood to passing steamers than to tending the light. In fact, he virtually abandoned life at the station, taking up residence in a house a mile from the light, close to the steamer landing. As a result Burton’s lackadaisical stewardship of the station, a large number of the trees which had been clear-cut around the station had re-grown. Arriving at the island to conduct his annual inspection of Lights in 1842, District Inspector Duane Wilson reported that he found the light was "seriously obstructed and its usefulness very much impaired by the trees surrounding it in certain directions." After a number of complaints were lodged by mariners complaining of the inconsistent manner in which Burton maintained this important aid to navigation, Stephen Pleasonton took action, and penned a letter to Abraham Wendell, the Mackinac Collector of Customs on July 20, 1842, admonishing him to "inform the Keeper if he does not keep a better light he will have to give place to some person who will. If it should be caused by want of ventilation in the lantern, you will apply the proper remedy. Two of the lamps here throw their light upon the shore, and of course are useless. You will direct the keeper to discontinue them. This keeper it seems lives a mile from the Lighthouse and does his duty by deputy. You will direct him to remove into the keeper's house and execute the duties himself, in default of which he will be removed without hesitation. It is alleged that this light is obscured in one direction by trees that may be removed at an expense of about twenty dollars. You will cause the trees to be removed if you shall find the expense will not exceed twenty or thirty dollars." Evidently the warning failed to improve the situation immediately, as Burton continued to serve as Keeper of the South Manitou Island Light until May 29, 1843, when he resigned his position to be replaced by Zachariah Ward. The selection of Keepers at the station appear to have left something to be desired, as Ward only lasted two years in the position before George Clark was appointed to replace him in August of 1845, and then Clark himself resigned to be replaced in turn by Benjamin Ross on June 27, 1849. Perhaps providing a clue to the high keeper turnover at the station, during the annual inspection of the station conducted on July 8, 1850, it was reported that while Keeper Ross’ conduct was good, the fireplace was found to have been undermined by rats, and had caved-in, and rot was found in the eaves, for which the sum of $75.00 was requested to effect necessary repairs. Ross resigned from lighthouse service on June 18, 1853, and Alonzo Slyfield was immediately appointed to replace him. However, likely as yet another reflection of the high turnover at the station, Slyfield was only appointed as "Acting Keeper, " in which position he served until being promoted to full keeper status on September 9 of that same year. After great dissatisfaction with Stephen Pleasonton’s administration of lighthouses in the United States, responsibility for the nation's aids to navigation was removed from the Treasury Department by an Act of Congress in 1853, and transferred to the newly formed Lighthouse Board. One of the Board's first orders of business was a complete upgrading of the Lewis lamps with the superior French Fresnel lenses, and as part of this system-wide upgrade, a work crew arrived at South Manitou in 1857 and installed a fixed white Fourth Order Fresnel lens in the lantern. With the deterioration mentioned in the 1850 inspection largely unresolved, during the installation of the new lens in 1857 the construction crew found that the condition had deteriorated to a point that complete replacement of the structure was considered the only viable option. To this end, a work crew arrived on the island in 1858 with materials to completely replace the station. As was frequently the case, once a new lighthouse plan had been drawn-up, that plan was used at a number of stations throughout the district. The plan for the new building on South Manitou was a virtual duplicate of two other stations built that same year at Port Washington and at Grand Traverse.
Continuing the station’s established pattern of high keeper turnover, two more keepers served and resigned from the station over the following seven years until Aaron Sheridan, who moved into the dwelling with his wife Julia and their children on July 21, 1866. Some reports indicate that this new light may not have been as much of an improvement over the old station as the Lighthouse Board had planned, as local lore has it that an "enterprising" resident of Empire by the name of Joe Perry, devised a scheme whereby he capitalized on the dimness of the light. By placing a lantern on the southern end of Sleeping Bear Dunes, vessels would see the lantern, mistake it for the dim South Manitou light, and run aground on the shore north of Empire. When the crew of the ship left to get help, Perry would row a small boat out and rob the grounded vessel. Perry must have been an unsavory character, since although many of Empire’s residents knew of his exploits, and some even allowed him to store his ill-gotten gains in their houses, nobody turned him in to the authorities. At the close of the 1860’s the Lighthouse Board came to realize that the diminutive light on South Manitou ill-served the increasing number of vessels making the Passage. Remarking that it was "frequently impossible to distinguish the present light from those on board vessels at anchor," Eleventh District Engineer Colonel J B Wheeler began to lay out plans for the erection of a more substantial station on the island. Estimating that an improved light could be established for $10,000, the Board requested the necessary appropriation in its annual report for 1869. However, Wheeler was reassigned to duty elsewhere, and Brevet Brigadier General Orlando M. Poe took over as Chief Engineer for the Eleventh District on March 24, 1870. An accomplished civil and military engineer, and a man of considerable vision, Poe’s analysis of the situation at South Manitou called for a more expansive solution. In his report for 1870, Poe stated that "the importance of this station demands even a better light than originally proposed, and but for the limited amount appropriated there would have been recommended the erection of a tower of greater height, with a lens of the Third Order." In a testament to Poe’s reputation, Congress appropriated the additional $20,000 on March 3, 1871. By July 20, 1871, a working party and all the necessary materials had been delivered on the island, and work was underway at a feverish pitch.
With the additional responsibilities represented by the tending of a light in such a tall tower, the decision was made to add a First Assistant to the station, and Aaron Sheridan managed to have his wife Julia appointed to the position on September 30, 1872. Thus, it is likely that the new light was exhibited for the first time at somewhere close to that date. No longer serving any purpose, the old tower and lantern were removed from the dwelling, the roof re-shingled, and the work crew departed, leaving Keeper Sheridan and his family to keep watch over the Passage. 1875 saw the erection of wood-framed fog signal building at the station. Outfitted with a boiler fired by coal or wood, the steam was piped to a single 10-inch locomotive whistle located atop the roof of the building. The old fog bell was left standing to serve as an emergency backup in case the steam whistle failed. With the addition of the steam fog signal to the list of duties for the station, Jeremiah Becker was appointed as the station’s Second Assistant, arriving at the station on May 27.
Tragedy was soon lost in the grind of daily work, as the steam fog signals at South Manitou were quickly deemed so vital to maritime commerce in thick weather that in 1878 a second similarly equipped fog signal building was erected a hundred feet to the east of the original structure. This second structure was designed to serve only as a backup in case of failure of the original system, and no longer serving any purpose, the fog bell and machinery were shipped to Duluth for use at the that port’s new harbor entrance.
After almost twenty years of heavy use, the boilers and whistles in both fog signal buildings were found to be in poor condition, and bids for furnishing replacement equipment were advertised on April 15, 1896. Contracts were awarded that summer, and the equipment was delivered at the Detroit depot in September. The materials were loaded on the lighthouse tender AMARANTH for transportation to South Manitou. However being that their delivery to the island was so late in the season, the actual installation of the new machinery did not begin until the opening of the 1897 navigation season, with the work completed that July. While on the island, the work crew also rebuilt and fireproofed both fog signal buildings and laid 1,400 feet of sidewalk to connect the station buildings. The installation of the new fog signal equipment appears to have been completed just in time, as 1898 found the South Manitou keepers busy feeding the hungry boilers with 71 cords of wood and a ton of coal to keep the whistles screaming their warning over the lake for a station record 1,085 hours.
Things were relatively uneventful over the following twenty years, and with slowly declining maritime traffic, the station began to waned in importance. 1933 saw the last major change at the station, with the removal of the steam fog whistles and the installation of twin Type "F" diaphone signals, operated by electric air compressors powered by twin diesel generators. With the erection of the North Manitou Shoal Light in 1935 and the subsequent establishment of the South Manitou Shoal Lighted Gong Buoy some time thereafter, a series of events was unfolding that would lead to the end of the South Manitou light. Advances in radio and radar technology after the Second World War provided vessels masters with the ability to "see" through the dark of night and the thickest of weather, reducing the dependence on expensive manned light stations. On December 12, 1958, the final crew departed the South Manitou Light Station, leaving the tower behind them to stand blind sentinel over the Passage.
With the establishment of the new park, the Park Service assumed responsibility for all historic structures within the park, including both the lighthouse and the old Coast Guard station. In accordance with standard National Park practice, the emphasis on such management has been more geared towards stabilization than restoration, and considerable work has been undertaken to ensure the long term viability of the structures. Today, modern ferry boats depart from the docks at Leland carrying
both day visitors and longer-term campers out to the Manitous, and
Rangers stand ready to take visitors on guided tours of one of the most
majestic and storied lighthouses in all of the Great Lakes. Manitou Island Transit operates their ferry out of Leeland, with boarding beginning at 9.15am, the boat departs for the South Manitou at 10.00am, arriving at the island at 11.00am. Visitors then have five hours to explore the island, and return to the dock to catch the ferry's departure at 4.30pm, arriving back in Leeland at 6.00pm. Since
there is no food available on South Manitou, packing a picnic lunch is a
must-have! Operating on a seven day a week basis in June, July and
August, Tuesdays and Thursdays are dropped from the schedule in the
months of May, September and October. |